Q and A
- What is the "Lifetime Structural Warranty"?
- Can I build it myself?
- Is there a way to estimate turnkey costs?
- Chinking vs. log-on-log homes: I have heard that the log-on-log homes are more energy efficient; would like your feedback on this issue.
- What is the R-Value of a Hearthstone log wall?
- Finished Costs: Cubic Footage v. Square Footage
- Why aren't Hearthstone Timbers Kiln Dried?
- What are Shellguard and Yardguard?
- Other Questions
What is the "Lifetime Structural Warranty"?
Hearthstone first introduced a very liberal interpretation to a lifetime structural warranty in 1987. It was written by our President and did not involve legal language (by design). Simply stated, if the original owner had a structural problem develop over the years, we'd fix it for free.
In 1995, we found that much of the repair or cases that required inspection was due to natural movement of wood (checking, twisting, etc.) and/or little to no maintenance on the owner's part. We subsequently changed the warranty and legal language in our Purchase Agreement.
Our warranty is simple. We'll stand behind our product and help if anything bad develops. There are standards for wood design and allowances for checking and movement. If we caused a problem and the problem is deemed beyond the normal allowances, we'll fix it for free. If the problem is simply visual or caused by poor maintenance and/or finish work, we want the right to charge for the repair and would submit an estimate for such.
Can I build it myself?
The pre-cut packaged home industry is popular with do-it-yourselfers and owner contractors. The challenges are great, but so are the rewards. The banks usually require the homeowner be experienced, or at least show they have the ability to complete the job. Since your equity position will not require "permission" from the bank, the only questions you need to ask yourself are:
- Do I have the time?
- Do I have the ability and patience?
- Is it something I enjoy doing?
- If the decision to "build yourself" is driven by finances, will the time away from employment offset the savings gained by doing the work yourself?
Hearthstone makes the process of "building yourself" easier by providing the erection and dry-in services with our packages. This results in a temporarily "dried-in" shell for you to complete at your own pace. You'll need to prepare the foundation and subfloor ahead of delivery (we provide the plans), but then we get most of the heavy lifting done and structural work completed (our crews have cranes and the pricing is included with erected shell).
If you would like a detailed Proposal, see an existing Hearthstone or speak with an owner who accomplished what you are considering, let me know.
Is there a way to estimate turnkey costs?
Hearthstone's full packages include structural, specialty, common, erection and dry-in services. To this you need to add the cost of freight and state sales/use tax. The erection and dry-in pricing assumes site access allows for our tractor trailer trucks to deliver near the foundation and the crane will be positioned on the uphill side. Shuttling of materials and tight job sites require more money.
Some areas of the country are more expensive than others and your finish tastes will also vary the total costs. The General Contracting services (hire a GC or do-it-yourself) and the amount of owner involvement in the finish work also effect the costs. A rule of thumb we use in East Tennessee when our clients hire out all the work for a home on a crawl space is 2.25 to 2.5 times the package costs.
A home on a full basement is usually 2.5 to 3 times the package costs. Some stonework, hardwood floors, porch and patio details should be included in these figures. These costs do not include land, site or septic work.
Another way of ballparking is the average cost per square foot----although I'd like to see the cost per cubic foot used instead since the interior volume of the home dictates more of the cost than heated floor area square footage. For average sized 2000 square foot homes, the good quality total construction costs are currently running $100 to $150 per square foot of heated area, including our package. Smaller homes tend to be higher per square foot and larger homes tend to be smaller per square foot.
We have found over the years that most people get what they pay for and very few get more! If a builder is coming in too high (compared to the other bids) it doesn't always mean that he is earning more money. We recommend you see examples of the work and nail down the specifications before you decide.
Expectations are everything. If the builder's expectations are greater, it may influence the finish quality and/or service and he'll be priced too high. If they are lower, he won't provide what you expected. Matching expectations is the key to any successful endeavor. Let us know if we can be of help locating an experienced builder.
Chinking vs. log-on-log homes: I have heard that the log on log homes are more energy efficient; would like your feedback on this issue.
A log on log system contains slightly more "mass" than a log home with chinking. An average R-Value for a six inch thick log is R-8.04, regardless of log on log or chink style. The 6x12 Hearthstone chink space is loaded with insulation (R-25) and this helps boost the average R-Value of the entire wall to R-12.1, and still retains the "mass effect".
Even though we can prove how tight and energy efficient our log system is compared to others, I recommend you base your decision on aesthetics. If you like the look of a log on log (with a small amount of chinking), there are several companies that do good work. Log on log electrical wiring is challenging, limited and will cost more. Log lengths are shorter (longest usually 16') and butt joints are common. Erection fees are usually higher because of all the lagging, short logs and electrical wiring delays. If you decide to base your "buying" decision on package costs, let us show you why our package is more (or should be more), the total turnkey cost is not that much different, and why our service, aesthetics and guarantees set Hearthstone apart.
I read over your information but you don't give the R value of the timber itself - just the chink. Please tell me the R value of the timber
The R-Value of the wall log will vary with the species of wood. We use both Eastern White Pine and Western Hemlock for our wall logs, typically in 6 inch thickness. For a 6" wall, the wood material is R-7.2. If you combine the outside air film of 0.17" and inside air film of 0.68", a 6" thick log is approximately R-8.0. Averaging this with the increased R-Value of the chink space (see above), our total wall average is approximately R-12.1 for our 6x12 system with a 4 inch chink space.
Keep in mind R-values are only one factor in determining energy efficiency and comfort. The other two factors are air infiltration and "mass effect".
Finished Costs...Cubic Footage v. Square Footage
The finished cost will have more to do with the "cubic footage" than the square footage. Cubic footage is related to the roof system. Open cathedral ceilings with exposed hewn rafters and tongue and groove ceilings are very attractive and are what most folks visualize when they think of log homes. 1300 square feet with this type of roof system may cost $130k+ on a crawl space or unfinished basement in East Tennessee.
A flat truss roof system with 8'-0" drywall ceilings is less expensive to build, possibly $120k on a crawl space in East TN.
I'd expect these prices would afford hardwood floors, stone fireplaces, covered porches and some site work. Our package cost for a dried in shell would usually cost around 40% of these total costs with the balance set aside for local labor and materials. Let me know if I can provide a detailed Proposal.
Why aren't Hearthstone Timbers Kiln Dried?
Since 1971, the large timber we use in our homes is basically "green". It might have been cut yesterday from our sawmill, or may have been in our yard air drying for the past (2) years. Which timber we select is determined by the size and length and inventory we have on hand. Air dried is technically below 19% moisture content and kiln dried is below 15%.
In Tennessee, most softwoods take (1) full year of naturally air drying for every inch of thickness to get the moisture content down below 19%. For a six inch timber, this could take (3) years. Some hardwoods require (2) years per inch, therefore doubling the time. It is impractical to inventory enough lumber for this amount of time because the potential for mold, checking and insect infestation. The waste factor adds to the cost of doing business.
Instead of kiln drying our logs, we have several engineering details that allow for shrinkage and settling. The support posts have adjustable jacks. The interior partitions are designed for settling and the windows/doors have special jambs that allow the logs to move. We assume 1/4 inch of shrinkage for every 12" of log. This adds up to approximately 3 inches of settling on a two story home. This movement may take (3) years to do naturally after you've moved in and turned on the HVAC system. This time frame will be quicker in dryer climates.
We believe in using kilns for many items we provide, except logs over 4" in thickness. This covers conventional framing, siding, T&G decking, trim and flooring. We don't believe in kiln drying large timbers because they will split and twist before they are finished drying and 15% moisture content is not low enough. To effectively measure the moisture content, you must cut the timber open and measure the center. Logs that are marketed as "kiln dried" often aren't measured in the middle. Kiln dried logs will still shrink and settle. They will not shrink or settle as much as green lumber, but they still require special engineering. Most finish carpenters like to lay hardwood floors when the moisture content approximates 8%, so shrinkage will be minimum.
I will credit a kiln's effectiveness for killing insects. If we used sapwood, we would consider such an investment. Since we use the "heartwood" of the tree, we have very little insect infiltration. Insects migrate toward the outer rings, or sapwood of the tree where the moisture content is greater and the wood softer. The heartwood is denser and contains less moisture. We grade our timber and inspect for signs of insects before, during and after production.
Some new technology is on the market that microwaves and vacuum kilns timber. But it's cost and volume limitations are questioned. In the meantime, we feel engineering for settling on the front end is more cost effective and results in a tighter home in the short and long run.
What are ShellguardTM and YardguardTM?
Hearthstone uses ShellGuardTM on all sill logs as standard practice. We'll occasionally use YardGuardTM (for a fee that is covered in Purchase Agreement) with packages that have already been cut and client delays delivery so blue stain doesn't set in too bad.
YardguardTM is designed to be applied to freshly-sawn wood, timber, and logs within 24 hours after they are sawn or peeled. YardguardTM is a temporary mildewicide and UV inhibitor to provide temporary protection while the logs are being stacked, or lying in the manufacturer's yard. YardguardTM does not stop any wood ingesting insects and does not provide long term protection from mold, mildew and graying from UV light.
ShellguardTM, on the other hand is designed as a termiticide and preservative that not only stops damage from wood-ingesting insects, but also stops the formation of wood decaying fungus. ShellguardTM is a borate-based product that is applied before the wood has any finish applied. Then, when the ShellguardTM dries completely, you can apply the LifelineTM. The ShellguardTM has to have a finish applied and maintained, if not, it will leave the wood after a period of time.
In regard to your question about applying LifelineTM stain over ShellguardTM. The customer need only to wait until it is dry to the touch early in the mornings. Dry time will vary greatly with temperature and humidity. Cold weather applications of Shellguard may take six weeks, but in the summer months---usually 72 hours.
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